![]() NEVER bake rocks, as they may explode!īranches, logs, and cork bark are excellent for varying the terrain and giving your leo things to climb on/in. You can even build a warm hide with slate or flat rocks to double as a basking spot on top and a cozy cave underneath! If you collect rocks from outside, give them a good scrub and soak in a disinfectant compatible with porous surfaces, such as Clean Break or F10SC. Leopard geckos like climbing, and in fact, stacking pieces of slate with 1-2” spacers in-between simulates the cracks that they utilize in their natural environment. One of the best ways to provide a naturalistic basking area and attractive appearance is with rocks. All 3 of the required hides should be dark, snug, & fully enclosed with a single entrance. People like having options, and leopard geckos do, too. Do not limit yourself to three hides, however. The humid hide should be filled with sphagnum moss or coconut fiber and kept at 80-90% humidity at all times, using a hand mister. If you are still worried about impaction, however, using a “solid” substrate such as paper towels or slate tile is fine, although it is less enriching, less comfortable, and less natural than an appropriate loose substrate.Ī leopard gecko needs at least three hides: a warm dry hide below the heat source, a cool dry hide on the opposite side, and a humid hide in between, slightly closer to the warm side to avoid a cold, wet environment. Sand alone can't hold burrows and the loose, slippery texture is unnatural for leopard geckos. Pre-washed, dust-free play sand or fine-grain dune sand is perfectly safe, although we strongly recommend mixing it with organic topsoil for a substrate that most closely replicates their natural environment. Leos require a certain range of basking heat in order to properly digest their food and pass any bits of substrate they may have ingested.Īfter extensive research and thought on the matter, ReptiFiles has concluded that sand is safe for leopard geckos, but only if it is used correctly. ![]() ![]() The leading causes of impaction are improper temperatures, dehydration, and high parasite loads, not loose substrate. Many sources recommend against using any kind of loose substrate, out of fear of causing intestinal blockage via accidental ingestion. All above substrates can easily support bioactivity with the addition of a “cleanup crew” of isopods and springtails that clean up uneaten food, fallen leaves, and fecal remains, making bioactive substrates incredibly low maintenance. Bioactive enclosure setups are designed to mimic a reptile’s natural environment and stimulate natural behaviors. ![]()
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